When it comes to metals, gold or platinum are the usual choices depending on the colour that appeals to you. Gold comes in a variety of colours. Pure 24 karat gold is the golden colour we know, but it is too soft to hold a diamond securely, so usually the jeweller uses 18 karat gold down to 10 karat gold to make a setting for a diamond. He makes an alloy, combining another metal with the gold to make up the 24 karats. The other metal is the one that gives gold a new colour and this could be anything from white to blue, green, pink, read, etc.
Diamond Rings: The Setting – Claws and Prongs
For a solitaire diamond, the usual setting is a claw or prong. As the name suggests, thin gold or platinum wires hold the diamond securely at the edges of its crown, the base of the prongs forming a little basket attached to the ring. There are four to six prongs holding the gem, placed at even intervals. Ideally rounded at the edges, they barely show and allow the natural brilliance of the solitaire to shine out. A common prong setting is seen in eternity bands. The diamonds are set all around the ring and each prong will hold the diamond on both sides of it, creating a continuous circle.
Diamond Rings: The Setting – Bezels
A bezel setting is a band of precious metal wrapped around the sides of the diamond and very slightly protruding above it. This setting, though traditional, can be modernised by breaking up the bezel into two bands. This is called the semi or half bezel and allows more of the diamond to show. The gold or platinum band that the bezel is set in is sometimes engraved or set with tinier stones, making the entire ring more interesting.
Diamond Rings: The Setting – Channels
The channel setting is as its name suggests, diamonds set in a row embedded in a channel. This setting is popular for both wedding rings and for engagement rings. A central diamond can be enhanced by having smaller channel set diamonds running down both sides. A channel setting is very pretty for the eternity band, allowing two channels of diamonds to run around the ring, on the outer edges – very tiny diamonds, of course!
Diamond Rings: The Settings – Pavé
The pavé setting is another exquisite way to set diamonds. Exactly as it sounds, the diamonds cover the surface of the ring like a pavement of cobblestones, or a carpet of gems. All the diamonds are exactly the same size, and cut perfectly. Pavé needs a very skillful and painstaking craftsman to accomplish, so these diamond rings do tend to be more expensive.
Settings are often combined, a solitaire or bezel set diamond will often have channel or pavé set diamonds on the sides. Cluster rings are usually stylized designs of flowers or abstracts and combine a variety of gems in different settings. There are so many designs - the only way for you to decide the best setting for yourself is to see how it looks on your own hands.